BBM Dergisi / Sayı:30 Ocak-Şubat 2019

ARTICLE • MAKALE 58 BBM / JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2019 • OCAK-ŞUBAT 2019 anised, scientists developed wheat with shorter stems to accommodate the machines. Its root systems were also shorter and the gluten structure increasingly strong, giv- ing modern bread its characteristic fluffy texture. Changes in yeast As wheat changed during the Industrial Revolution, the yeasts we use also underwent rapid scientific ad- vancements. In 1876, two brothers, Charles and Max Fleischmann, launched their new, manufactured yeast at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. By the 1930s, commercial yeast was firmly established as a household essential. In the 1940s, as the United States entered the war, Fleischmann Laboratories were still leading the way in yeast development. They discovered and then manufac- tured Active Dry Yeast®, specifically so that the troops could enjoy home-baked bread. Scientists went on to develop highly active dry yeasts that were capable of raising dough up to 50% faster than regular yeasts. In 1961, this leap lead to what many consider to be the low point of bread making: the arrival of the high volume Chorleywood baking process. This industrial method of factory-produced bread prioritised the speed and cost of production at the expense of flavour and texture. The industrial process has been blamed for much of today’s wheat intolerance, as it produces bread that is full of enzymes and preservatives. But laying all the blame on the manufacturing oversimplifies the problem, given that the grains themselves have changed. The problem is not just how we make the bread, but also the kind of wheat we use to make it. Heritage grain miller John Letts As a specialist sourdough breadmaker, I have re- searched into old varieties of grains, to better under- stand their nutritional value and impact on digestion. My work introduced me to miller John Letts, who grows heritage grains in Oxfordshire, and as I began baking with his flour I realised the true social, environmental and health cost of industrial bread production. I began to bake sourdough bread using Einkorn and Emmer flours, and soon discovered that in contrast to modern wheat bread, the ancient grains have a deep nutty, sweet fla- vour and make robust loaves with great crust and light chewy interiors. John Letts is a Canadian born archaeo-botanist who, for the past 25 years, has been growing and milling many of the heritage variety grains that have long since disap- peared from industrial agricultural systems. Mayadaki değişiklikler Sanayi devrimi sırasında buğday değişirken kullandığı- mız mayalar da hızlı bir bilimsel gelişme yaşadı. 1876 yılın- da Charles ve Max Fleischmann adlı iki kardeş Philadelp- hia’daki Centennial Fuarı’nda yeni ve üretilmiş mayalarını tanıttı. 1930’lara gelindiğinde ticari maya evdeki zaruri bir ihtiyaç gibi yerini aldı. 1940’larda ABD savaşa girdi. Fleischmann Laboratu- varları hâlâ maya geliştirilmesindeki öncü rolünü koruyor- du. Özellikle askerlerin ev yapımı ekmek tadını alabilmesi için aktif kuru mayayı bulup geliştirdiler. Bilim adamları ise hamurun normal mayalara nazaran yüzde 50 oranında daha hızlı kabartan aşırı aktif kuru maya geliştirdi. 1961 yılında bu gelişim, insanların ekmek yapımında en düşük noktaya ulaştığı yolu açtı: yüksek miktarda Chor- leywood pişirme sürecinin gelişi. Fabrikada üretilen bu ekmeğin endüstriyel yöntemi, lezzet ve doku yerine üre-